Prattle & Jaw

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Thailand with a Baby - The Final Cut

So here we are. Home again. 

Our flight left at 9.20am on Sunday, and 11 hours later, we landed safely back in Copenhagen. The flight, unlike the journey over, was full, which meant no extra seat for us to pile Melvin’s stuff on to. This was a shame, but we managed. It was a much better flight this time, even if we were a bit cramped (Norwegian only allows babies to sit at window seats, which seems odd to me as it means you have to disturb the aisle seat every time you need to go for a walk or change a nappy). It being a day flight, we weren’t hoping for a full night’s sleep so when Melvin napped, we watched films, ate, and talked, and when he was awake we took it in turns to entertain him. He got a bit whiny towards the end, but I think that was down to boredom more than anything else. I had started too.

We learnt a lot this trip. Things that seemed OK to us here, turned out not to be so, and things we thought would be annoying weren't. Not to mention things we never even thought about, no matter how obvious they were once we realised them. It was a real curve, and a great experience. To summarise, I'm going to add to the billions of other blogs out there telling you how to prepare for a holiday in Thailand with your baby. This is different to the others as I'm quite sensible and normal, instead of weird and crazy. 

Share your baby

First of all, be prepared for you baby to be taken out of your arms, and out of the stroller - even if buckled in. People will cross streets, take photos, kiss legs, arms, hands, feet, heads, pinch (gently!), fat thighs, cheeks, bums - anything. It is insane. The first time is weird, the 10th time is cute, and the 100th time just annoying. It sounds awful as you can't hate people thinking your baby is virtually edible (which, you know, he is), but when you're trying to walk through a crowded night market, it can get a bit too much - for parents and baby. Melvin coped really well, but I could imagine it getting too much for a shy baby, or smaller baby. We let people take him and show him to the rest of the staff, or their friends, but kept him in eyesight. A friend just told me of a couple who had their baby taken to the market without them knowing! It made me laugh now, but I'm pretty sure it'd be a different story if it had been Melvin off shopping. We were told by a couple of different women that raising a baby is very much a community effort in Thailand, so everyone pitches in whenever they can - like taking the baby off your hands when you're eating and so on. It's a great idea, makes sense, and is lovely, but it's also a little daunting to us. However, Melvin was perfectly happy and of course, totally unharmed. If anything, I think it taught him to like other people even more.  

No car seat

After much deliberation, we didn't take a car seat. We didn't drive about that much, and when we did, there wasn't even a spare seat or seat belt to strap it to. 9 times out of 10, the driver let us sit in the front passenger seat with Melvin on our lap (in the AC!). We didn't rent scooters as we were too anxious and didn't want to run the risk, but it's really a personal choice. I'm sure some people would think we were nuts for not taking a seat, but for us it was the right decision. Not worth lugging it around for the one or two 5 minute trips we could have used it on. 

Nappies

Unless your baby has a diagnosed allergy, don't pack 400 nappies. Nappies are everywhere in Thailand. In every 7-11 and every FamilyMart. All kinds, all sizes, at a fraction of the usual price. The large Tesco Lotus' have a huge range. None are eco or organic, but our boy has worn nothing but the latter and he was just fine with Thai branded nappies. They're fine. Seriously, don't bother bringing them (we used MamyPoko). 

Let sleeping babies lie

You might want to punch someone after a Thai person pokes your sleeping baby and wakes them up between 3pm and 6pm for the umpteenth time. This is because Thai babies are kept awake during this period so they go down easily in the evening. Best to keep sleeping babies out of Thai reach.

Bring nursing pads and nappy bags

Bring nursing pads. You can find them in larger Boots stores, but they're not everywhere. Unless you want your pads to weigh the same as your child, pack lots. Bring plenty of nappy bags. We ran out and ended up buying plastic bags. Not a big problem, but just a little nuisance. Bad planning on our behalf.  

Bugs

Be wary of bugs. We had cockroaches, millipedes and a snake. The roaches creeped me out a bit - I mean, those suckers will crawl anywhere and everywhere, but the millipedes and snake weren't too much of a worry. I hate the idea of roaches on Melvin, but we left the places they were after a few days. I know it's Thailand, and roaches are roaches, but if the place is kept clean enough, they shouldn't be there.  Mosquitos were a nightmare. No matter what we did, Melvin was bitten. It would be wise to invest in the best baby mosquito lotion you can find. The bites didn't bother him, but you can't help but worry. We had a net for the stroller but didn't use it as it it turned the stroller into a badly ventilated oven. 

Bring an adapter or two

Bring a plug adapter than turns one outlet into two. Or 10, preferably. We were constantly switching around lamps, phone charger, our computer charger, baby monitors - you name it. There were never enough outlets. 

No travel cot

We didn't use our travel cot once. Melvin is all about the breastfeeding and taking him out of the cot at night woke him up too much. We co-slept every night so Melvin could just shuffle across for grub. This meant three to a bed. As beds were usually with the headboard against a wall, but standing in middle of the wall we slept sideways so that Melvin could sleep between wall and Thilde. My feet sometimes hung over the edge of the bed, but what can you do. 

Bring a rain cover and a brolly

Pack your pram's rain cover. When it rains in Thailand, it rains. Pack a brolly.  A big one, preferably thick and white to reflect the sun. We used ours to walk along the beach with Melvin under it, and you could use it on the beach too to shade your baby. It’s also handy for those monsoon rains!

Pack a play mat

Or yoga mat.  Ours was really useful as most places are a bit grubby, wooden (splinter hell), or just uneven and hard to play on when a baby is still unable to crawl etc. 

Pack light for low season

If you do go in the low season, don't pack any long sleeves or trousers. You really, really won't need them. We wrapped a muslin around Melvin's legs when we were concerned about mosquitos. Try to pack an extra large muslin or some kind of very light sheet (like a sarong), to drape over the stroller. We couldn't help but get Melvin in the sun sometimes, so used a big muslin to create a big shade. It was light enough to move freely in any breeze, but heavy enough to keep the direct sun off him. It also helped hide him from the Thai people all too eager to say hello. 

Strollers FTW

Our stroller was brilliant. Although we only saw one Thai family use one - they all use wraps and carriers - it proved to be a easy way to get around, and Melvin could take some pretty good naps in his. It wasn't annoying to take with us in taxis, and everyone and anyone is very quick to help you up stairs etc. 

Think hard about hotels

Really think about your choice of hotel. We thought we had things under control, but a number of times we had to move because it just wasn't practical. Stairs, hills, sand - it's all a challenge. Fine for a day or two, but after a week of pushing a stroller through what feels like wet cement, it all gets a bit too much. I know it's hard to judge by the hotel website, but try asking for a room close to the beach/restaurant/reception. We also had a problem leaving our room locked as the keys were often used to keep the AC on. If we wanted to lock the door, we had to turn the AC off. Makes sense for the environment, but it means you can't leave a sleeping baby in a cool room. Frustrating. A couple of places we managed to take the AC card/key off the chain, but not everywhere. The ideal room is close to everything - or with a pool or beach within monitor range. That way you get to swim or sunbathe in view of the room while the baby is sleeping - with the AC on. 

A few of our rooms had outdoor living areas. Beautiful, but no good in the low season - just too hot. Think twice before you book somewhere like that. It's easy to be seduced but when you have to spend all your time in the bedroom... We really appreciated the few rooms that had an indoor small living room/area. Basically somewhere other than the bed/area immediately around the bed to play in, and for us to relax in once the baby's sleeping. The three of us snuggled up in bed at 8pm was very cosy, but you know, sometimes you wanted to have a drink and talk. Going out was out of the question due to AC and monitor range problems. 

Films on the computer/tablet

Stock up on films. Wifi was rarely good enough to stream/download, so throwing some stuff on a USB or your computer in advance would be wise. 

Bring your own meds

If you are only breastfeeding you might want to buy some rehydration salts or other medicine that is OK for you to take while breastfeeding - just in case. We had a lot of trouble finding something a pharmacist thought would be 100% OK. 

I think that's it. Melvin drank/ate more than he does at home, just to keep hydrated, but other than that he coped absolutely fine with the heat and humidity. We kept him in loose clothes, and as cool as we could, but babies are tough little things. He fell into a routine after a day or two, and didn't have a single problem for the whole two months. Thankfully!

My biggest piece of advice would be: don't worry. It's not the depths of the Amazon; it's Thailand. People want to help, people are kind, doctors and hospitals - almost specifically for tourists - are all over the place.

In short - you'll be fine. Go, enjoy your holiday, and take things as they come. Just like any other day with a baby - you'll pick it up as you go along. 

Leaving Koh Samui

Today we leave Koh Samui. For now. We'll spend 28 days on Koh Phangan, and then come back here for another two weeks before heading home. It's strange to think we've been here for two weeks already. It's been so very different from what we're used to. Gone are the days where we would get up and spend the whole day sitting on the beach, swimming in the sea, and enjoying cold beer as we watched the sun go down. Instead, they're mostly about being with Melvin, and taking care of the little guy. But that's OK. That's what this trip is all about. 

There's no rush with anything - that much hasn't changed. Our mornings might be earlier, but so are our evenings, and our days, while spent with Melvin, are fairly lazy. Of course that'll change when he figures out what his legs are for, so we're making the most of his immobile state. 

Our accommodation standards have certainly changed. The first time we went to Thailand together as a couple was in 2009. Below is our room.

I remember we thought it was fantastic. It was a little bungalow, with a very small sitting area outside the door, and a shared bathroom down the path. No A/C (clearly), a bed as hard as stone, no towels, no sheets, no nothing - just walls and a roof. 

Now look at us. 

A video posted by @twesterby on

We've been incredibly happy with our stay at Briza. With off-peak prices, we booked a villa made up of a large bedroom, outdoor bathroom (with bathtub sunk into the ground), two sinks, an outdoor living room with separate toilet, and - best of all - a private plunge pool. The food is good, the staff extremely friendly and polite, and it's just a few minutes walk down a path to the beach and sea. The sea itself is very shallow for about 50 metres out, and only then does it gradually begin to deepen.

As a result, the water near the beach gets really quite hot by the afternoon, hot enough for us to think twice about putting Melvin in it, but seeing as he's not the biggest fan of the sea, that's not been a problem (although we did take him out in the morning). He has loved the plunge pool, however. He's discovered that he can make a splash, so he kicks away with great abandon as I hold him up. Great fun. 

The nappies we've been using over here (MamyPoko - sold in every 7/11 and Family Mart in Bangkok and Koh Samui), have been fine. Melvin's not had any reaction to them at all, but they don't seem to last a full night so we've saved the ones we brought from home to use during the night. I'm not sure if it was the nappies not being tight enough around his legs, or the force of Melvin's poo, but we did have a slight emergency one morning at breakfast when he decided to empty his bowels at the table, only for it to squirt out and on to Thilde. It was messy, and a shower job to get him clean, but what can you do. Fun times. 

We took a good long stroll along the beach and to central Chaweng, which in low-season and daylight looked clean enough, but it was fairly easy to imagine what it could be like. Seedy bars and dubious massage parlours abound, and huge speakers were pumping chilled out lounge to vast empty dance floors even early in the afternoon. We struggled a bit with the stroller - just a lot of up and downs over high pavement edges - ate, and then took a taxi back to the hotel for a cup of tea in bed.

So here we are, about to leave for the ferry. Our next stop will be very different from this, and we're looking forward. Onwards!

Koh Samui with a Baby (Part One)

Here we are in Koh Samui. Bophut, to be exact. We’ve been here for 5 days now, after an uneventful trip from Bangkok. 

We left after a pretty lazy day of waiting and making the most of the AC in the hotel, and took a taxi to the airport with hours to spare. Good thing really as the first thing that happened - inevitably - was traffic. We weren’t worried though, and sat listening to The Eagles telling us to take it easy (Melvin was wearing his Route 66 babygro from Winslow, Arizona), and other classic country the driver had playing. The airport was quiet and we were hurried through any kind of queue thanks to Melvin (that also happened when we arrived at Bangkok. We were ushered to a much shorter immigration queue. Yay for babies!). I had a donut, Thilde had a cookie, and Melvin threw up some milk which missed my t-shirt completely and landed in my pocket. The boy’s a good aim. 

The flight was only half full (again), but didn’t have seatbelts for babies, which was odd. No-one seemed too worried though, so we decided to just go with it. Melvin was perfect during the flight but got upset as we landed and wasn’t happy until we had picked up our luggage. A bit annoying as the airport on Koh Samui is lovely, and we were looking forward to it (how often can you say that about an airport?). Anyway, off to Smile House Resort and Spa. A very big room, with two beds, a balcony, fridge, and lots of space. They had even put a cot out for us, which was very thoughtful, but we’ve resorted to co-sleeping as it’s much easier to give him his night feeds that way. Maybe we’ll use our travel cot later on - provided he’s not wanting three meals a night! - but for now, the three of us in bed is working just fine. 

On our first day we had an unintentionally long walk around the back of Bophut and came across a man using a monkey to pull down coconuts. It was quite something. You can't see the monkey, but he's there, I promise (Thilde took a video). It was all very nice until I came across the Samui Monkey Theatre on TripAdvisor, and I thought the poor little guy was probably from there. Not so nice. 

So far Melvin has avoided mosquitos. Shame the same can’t be said for Thilde. She's sporting nine bites on one thigh. I have a few, but am lucky enough to not really be bothered by them. We’ve got some repellent the doctor recommended (Autan), but on the back it says it’s not suitable for children under 3. Hmmm. We spray the stroller and his trousers in the evening, and so far, so good. We’ve had a few good thunderstorms, impressive lightning and some magnificent monsoon rain. It’s quite lovely to hear it pouring down. We sit on the balcony and watch it streaming from the palm leaves. It all feels very exotic. The heat is a little more bearable, especially after the storms, but it’s still hot and humid. I think we’ve just adjusted a bit. 

As we thought would be the case, we are often relieved of Melvin. No matter if it’s breakfast, lunch, or dinner, at some point, someone will come and ask if they can hold him. They take him off to the kitchen, or back of house, as Thlide cranes her neck anxiously and I pretend to act cool. He always comes back smiling.

Bophut isn't quite what I expected. I’m not entirely sure what I expected, mind you. It’s hard to find a meal under 200 Baht (40 Kroner/£4), which might not sound much (and isn’t), but it’s more than we’ve had to pay before, and things just seem catered to a different kind of tourist. I suppose that’s life, inflation, and tourism. We’ve found a little spot down at the end of the street called The Hut Cafe, which has a little table with a fan, perfect for the three of us. Anyway, I’m getting a bit too specific. 

Country seems to be the music of the trip, and I listen to The Eagles, Carl Perkins and Aaron Tippin as I steal an hour alone on the beach. We’ve taken Melvin down to the beach once, and had him in the sea for a few minutes, but he wasn’t too keen on it. Thilde took him back to the room as I stole my hour, and on my return I found out he had wailed for 20 minutes. This is new for Melvin. In fact, I think the longest he’s cried before is perhaps 5 minutes. I felt very bad, but when he woke up (as he had cried himself to sleep), he was all smiles. The beach can wait. 

He’s perfectly content with a swim in the pool, however. We’ve GoPro-ed ourselves to death, and thankfully no-one else seems to mind his squeals and roars. 

In all honestly, we’ve done very little. Our mornings go by in a flash, despite us getting up at about 6.30/7. Once we’ve all eaten, we’ve worked out, and Melvin’s napped, it’s almost time for lunch. The afternoons are spent on a walk, a swim, maybe a quick sunbath, and lots of playing with Melvin. Friday was fairly different. In the evening the main street turns into a heaving market, with stalls selling just about everything - including lots of food. We headed out towards a restaurant but never made it, instead just eating from the many stalls: spring rolls, fried chicken, rice cakes, ice-cream, curry puff things, grilled pork - you name it. Thankfully we’re here for another Friday. 

Today (Monday), we’re off out on an excursion to a temple, and another town close by. It’ll be our first trip out in a taxi with no baby seat. I’ve no doubts it’ll be fine, but I’ve also no doubts we’ll both be worried, but seeing as we’ve got 7 weeks left (!), we’d better get used to it. 

We like it here, but it’s not quite us, and we’re not exactly sure why. We’re both looking forward to heading to Koh Phangan on Saturday, where we’ll be staying at the Orion Healing Centre (don’t laugh). The photos on their website look much more us. Hopefully we won’t be disappointed. Thilde is doing a yoga thing and Reiki thing, and I am doing a sitting-around-and-not-doing-anything-thing. We’ll be be so relaxed we’ll slide out of our bottoms (that’s one of Thilde’s expressions, not mine). 

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So now it’s the next day and it turns out we’re moving. Our trip to Chaweng, Koh Samui’s most popular beach and busiest town, proved to be rather good, something which surprised us immensely. We thought it would be a tourist hell, and in a way, it is, but thanks to it being the low season, the town is all but empty, and things - from curries to foot rubs - are far, far cheaper than in Bophut. Who’d have thunk. We wandered along the beautiful beach for a good hour (the stroller was fine on the compact sand), and happened upon a beachside restaurant where we stripped Melvin of his clothes, and had us a cold drink.

Then we took a taxi from the lobby and on the trip back, decided that we had seen enough of Bophut and we would move to Chaweng. That means we’ll have four nights there, so we’ve upped our budget a little bit and will be staying at Briza Resort, which seems lovely. I’ll have to report back later. 

We also visited Wat Plai Laem yesterday, a sort of Hindu/Buddhist temple complex, with a number of huge (and kitsch), temples. Very pretty.

Melvin was set upon and had his photo taken. I tried to take a photo of Melvin having his photo taken but I felt a bit daft so it didn’t come out very well.

Anyway, it was nice. We also conquered the first drive without a car seat. It was fine and we are alive. In fact, on the way back there weren’t even any seatbelts so even if we did have a car seat it wouldn’t have made much different. The taxi drivers have all - regardless of car seat or not - driven really well. I suspect it’s because of Melvin. No speeding, not a single overtaking, and no going very fast at all actually. We’ve felt fine. 

So here we are in bed on our last morning in Bophut. We’ll miss the Friday night food market, but we’ll deal. It’s been a good stay, but as mentioned before there’s something not quite right about it here - for us, at least. It’s a great room, a great resort, lovely people, good food…but it’s just not quite us. Hopefully Briza will be more us, even though it looks even more upscale, which is odd as usually we’re after things a bit more hippy. Maybe it’s Melvin. Yes, blame him. 

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